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FLEET 20 NEWSLETTER Catalina 22 - Fleet 20, Portland, OR From the Captain
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| Cruising |
San Juan Islands
JournalThe process of planning for this year’s trip to the San Juan Islands started about nine months before the scheduled departure date of July 28th. After several exchanges of email and continuing discussions at Fleet 20 social activities, the framework of an itinerary started to emerge in May and firmed up in June. As the months ticked by, the number of boats grew from the four that attended in 1999 to eight for this year.
Although this was only my second year cruising the San Juan’s, I volunteered to lead the cruise, which in Fleet 20 meant coordinating the schedule, calling ahead to verify that space would be available, and communicating details about the cruise via email and the phone.
Laura and I came away from our first trip to the San Juan’s with a set of preferences about what we wanted to do next time, and that’s something you just can’t get out of the numerous books that describe the area. In 1999, I had kept notes on everything from how much fuel and time we consumed on each leg of the cruise, to how much food we brought along, so planning for 2000 was a lot easier. Because two of the eight boats on the trip would be cruising with children on board, destinations with docks and shore side facilities was a priority in creating the itinerary. Since anchoring out is an important part of the San Juan’s experience, our itinerary enabled folks to go off and explore on their own for a day or two and then rendezvous later with the rest of the fleet.
Laura and I decided to include an additional night at Roche Harbor, so we departed for the San Juan’s a day earlier than the rest of the cruise participants.
July 27 (Thu.), Anacortes
The trip from Vancouver, WA to Anacortes (via I-5 and Hwy 20) took about 5.5 hours pulling the boat with our Ford Explorer (4.0 liter V6). Our destination was Cap Sante Boat Haven at Anacortes, where we launched and rigged the boat in preparation for our Friday morning departure.
I like Cap Sante because they have a lift for launching and retrieving the boat which keeps the trailer out of the salt water. Laura and I didn’t pre-load the boat with food, because the marina is located across the street from a Safeway grocery store. Another nice feature is that West Marine is about 2-3 blocks away.
Launching involved parking in the lift queue, loading the gear aboard the boat, mounting the motor, connecting the fuel, readying the fenders and lines, removing all straps between the boat and trailer, and then waiting to be flagged over to the lift. After backing the boat under the lift, the attendants then placed two wide straps under the boat and lifted it off the trailer and into the water. We moved our truck and trailer to the long-term parking area and settled into our slip for the night after raising the mast.
Don and Carol Hayes, who live in Edmonds, WA and keep their boat Windrose (#13247) at Anacortes during the sailing season, came by to say hello. Don and I had connected via the Internet and had realized that our planned vacations were going to overlap. It was great meeting a fellow C-22 sailor and sharing stories of our experiences sailing in the San Juan’s.
July
28 (Fri.), Roche Harbor
We awoke to rain and low clouds on Friday morning. With a plastic tarp strung over the boom, waypoints to Roche Harbor programmed into the GPS, and me in my foul weather gear and life jacket, we departed Anacortes in the late morning when the current in Guemes Channel was most favorable.
Near Thatcher Pass, the low lying clouds gave way to fog. Visibility for the next three hours varied from one hundred yards to one nautical mile and made me grateful I had the GPS and the radar reflector on the mast. The passage took 4.75 hours, and burned three gallons of fuel in my 7.5 hp Honda.
Arriving at Roche Harbor was such a relief. Not just because the fog and rain was behind us, but because Roche Harbor is such a charming spot with great facilities. Included with the berthing is access to the resort’s swimming pool and tennis courts (very popular with my eleven year old).
July 29 (Sat.), Roche Harbor
Unlike the 1999 itinerary when we moved to a new destination everyday, the 2000 itinerary reflected the slower pace many of us in Fleet 20 said we were looking for in our next trip. While the crew aboard Harmony (#14286) enjoyed another day at Roche Harbor, the other cruise participants were back in Anacortes busily preparing their boats.
Our plan had been for everyone to meet up at Roche Harbor for a group picture in front of the roses before the balance of the group headed onto Garrison Bay for the night, but another day of morning fog in the islands conspired against us. As the afternoon dissolved into early evening, I finally received an update from Terry Annis onboard Lematike via cell phone. The fog had delayed the group, causing them to miss the optimum current conditions. They were now slugging it out against 2-4 knot currents. While I had covered the distance from Anacortes to Thatcher Pass in less than two hours, Terry said it had taken them four hours.
We never got our group photo. By the end of the day, Dave and Linda Harcombe onboard Shearwater (#13741) had joined us in Roche Harbor after a seven hour passage, while the balance of the fleet was anchored in Garrison Bay after a nine hour passage.
July 30 (Sun.), Sidney B.C.
We awoke to bright sunny skies and no fog on Sunday. We timed our departure to pick up a favorable current, and after rendezvousing with Shearwater, headed to Sidney.
The Port Sidney Marina is where we cleared Canadian Customs.
Sidney describes itself as "Booktown" because of the nine bookstores within easy walk of the marina. Sidney offers a little of everything, from coffee houses and bakeries to marine hardware and a cetacean museum.
Dinner Sunday evening was a fleet potluck affair featuring salmon. We gathered together some chairs and tables the marina provides on the docks and combined them with fold-up chairs many of us carry onboard. This was our first opportunity to socialize together as a group.
July 31 (Mon.), Sidney B.C.
Monday was our opportunity to visit Victoria, B.C. and the world famous Butchart Gardens. Most of those venturing out took advantage of the excellent bus system to see the sights. Laura and I opted for a rental car (only a short walk from the marina) so we could visit some of the places we first saw on our honeymoon years earlier.
August 1 (Tue.), Ganges
Our passage from Sidney to Ganges on Saltspring Island was made under calm conditions. From the blue sky reflected off the near glass-like surface of the water, to the occasional sightings of seals and dolphins, it was a great time to be out on the water even if the sailing wasn’t optimal. Ganges is the commercial hub of Saltspring Island, so it is a good place to restock groceries and ice. Ganges is also home to many artists and art galleries.
We stayed at Ganges Marina, which was a short walk from
downtown. We were a little disappointed with the facilities which were limited
to only two toilets and two showers for the whole marina. The next time we visit
Ganges, we’ll try Salt Spring Marina which has better washrooms and showers,
as well as a complete laundry that will wash and fold your clothes for a very
reasonable fee.
August 2 (Wed.), Otter Bay
While Ganges was nice, Laura and I were looking for something more laid back, so we departed Ganges a day earlier than the rest of the fleet and traveled the seven nautical miles to Otter Bay on North Pender Island. Of the places we’ve visited so far in the Gulf Islands, Otter Bay is one of our favorite destinations.
Whether you’re watching the sunset from the deck, tossing
horseshoes on the grass, or taking a dip in the well-maintained pool, Otter Bay
is a great stop. Special features include adults only swimming from 4-6 p.m.,
live piano playing on the veranda, and a quaint and quiet harbor.
August 3 (Thu.), Otter Bay
The rest of the fleet joined us on Thursday after sailing from Ganges. Being able to actually sail in the San Juan’s became of focus of our dockside social that evening. The consensus was that you should expect to do most of your travel under power in order to cover the day’s passage in a reasonable amount of time. Our typical passage was about fifteen nautical miles, which we usually covered in three hours while motoring only. In order to get some sailing in, what we found worked for us was to sail part of the passage, or to motor to the destination, and then go out for a sail.
One of the interesting benefits of sailing in the company of
other boats is the sense of community that develops. Although we each took care
of our own cruising arrangements (i.e. meals, berthing, reservations, etc.)
there was still this feeling of working together to make the cruise enjoyable
for everyone.
Our typical evening routine involved swapping stories of the day’s passage, sharing information on what we had done to make the boats more comfortable for cruising, strolling between the boats visiting, and learning more about each other.
August 4 (Fri.), Deer Harbor
Friday marked the end of the Canadian portion of our cruise as we made preparations for heading back to the San Juan Islands. Terry and Kathie Annis aboard Lematike, and Bob Gales and Gail O’Neill aboard Imagine would continue exploring the Gulf Islands for another week while the rest of us began heading home.
Our first stop on the way to Deer Harbor on Orcas Island was to clear U.S. Customs at Roche Harbor. The Customs dock was very busy when we arrived, so we became part of nearly twenty boats from very large to very small waiting their turn at the dock.
With Customs cleared, we rafted up at the guest dock. After
everyone had a chance to stretch their legs and have lunch, we were on our way
again.
The run to Deer Harbor found the fleet in swells resulting from the afternoon winds and the wakes of some large powerboats. Though the seas were easily handled, it was a departure from the typically smooth conditions we had become accustomed to.
As four boats concluded the day’s passage at Deer Harbor, Dave and Linda Harcombe aboard Shearwater, and Nate and Margaret Hanson aboard Yacht-A-Fun, proceeded on to the anchorage northwest of Double Island and anchored for the night.
After everyone had come back from their evening sail or trip
to the pool, we reviewed our departure plans for Saturday. To avoid a strong ebb
current in Guemes Channel near Anacortes, we estimated that we need to be
underway at 5 a.m., so we all agreed to a 4:30 a.m. wake up call for the
skippers.
August 5 (Sat.), Anacortes
Fog! After more than a week of no fog, it was disappointing to see visibility below 0.5 nautical miles and variable. As the time drew closer to 5 a.m. we know we were going to miss the rendezvous with the two boats anchored at Double Island. Attempts to reach them on the radio had been unsuccessful, but we were getting bits and pieces of the traffic between the two boats and their attempts to connect us. We delayed our departure until we had enough light and visibility to Pole Pass which was a little over one nautical mile away.
With the radar reflector up the mast, and a large number of waypoints programmed into the GPS, we got underway for Anacortes. Ongoing attempts at connecting with the other boats met with no success. So, as we passed south of Double Island, we slowed to 1-2 knots so Dream A Little Dream could buzz up to the anchorage and see if Shearwater and Yacht-A-Fun were still there.
Visibility was varying from half of nautical mile to over two nautical miles as we passed south of the town of Orcas. Dream A Little Dream found no one at Double Island about the same time we started to hear fragments of conversations on the radio between the two boats. With the knowledge that they were proceeding ahead of us, we picked up our speed to 5-6 knots and headed east through Harney Channel.
Visibility improved to over three nautical miles as we headed southeast between Lopez Island and Blakely Island. Weekend ferry traffic also increased from Ocras all the way to Anacortes. Peering out into the grayness looking for dark masses required an extra level of vigilance that was tiring.
We finally established radio contact with Shearwater
as they were heading east through Thatcher Pass. They reported that the fog
looked worst eastward, so they and Yacht-A-Fun were going to head over
to the anchorage west of James Island and wait for conditions to improve.
Visibility at Thatcher Pass was one nautical mile. The next six nautical miles of the passage across Rosario Strait were my least favorite moments of an otherwise great cruise. North of James Island visibility improved to 1.5 nautical miles, so we decided to proceed eastward. Shearwater and Yacht-A-Fun rejoined the group that included Harmony, WindChaser, Little Hector, and Dream a Little Dream.
Although the fog was miserable, Rosario Strait was calm. About midway across Rosario Strait visibility dropped to a quarter mile or less. The six boats were strung out in a line, so that while any one boat could see at least two other boats, the lead boat could not see the last boat. We corrected this by slowing to allow the group to bunch up.
Finally the fog began to lift and we finished the remaining three nautical miles of the cruise in bright sunshine. Whew!
Final Thoughts
Despite the two episodes of fog, we had a great time on the cruise. The scenery was spectacular, the weather beautiful and the company enjoyable. Even with last year’s experience under our belts, we still ended up with too much food aboard the boat. Here’s a few of my thoughts about planning for our next cruise.
Cruise Roster
August
RendezvousWe had a great time at the August 26th Rendezvous in Grandma’s Cove on the Columbia River. Despite the scattered clouds that threatened all day we never saw a drop of rain, and in fact enjoyed a pretty sunny day in the afternoon.
Spots near Portland out of the river’s current are rare, and Grandma’s Cove is one of those spots. Located on the Oregon side, the cove offers warmer water and a protected area for swimming and rowing.
It
didn’t take long after we were rafted up for the younger members of the crews
to start hitting the water.
Three boats braved the questionable weather and were greeted with wonderful conditions. First to arrive and anchor were Bill and Vicki Sanborn aboard Upstart. Next were Dale, Laura, and Sean Mack along with Sean’s friend Ian aboard Harmony. And lastly were Kurt, Nancy, Eric, Nate, and Kelsy Riddle along with Kelsy’s friend Michelle aboard Vixen.
Kurt and Nancy Riddle have owned Vixen (#9353) over
eighteen years. Before moving to Oregon, they used to sail their boat on the
Great Salt Lake when they lived in Salt
Lake
City, Utah. This was the Riddle’s first Fleet 20 activity, and I hope they had
as much fun as we had meeting them.
Another participant in the rendezvous was Sherman, a Cavalier King Charles Spaniel aboard Harmony. Sherman had no trouble making friends;-)
As
the late afternoon transitioned into early evening we shared appetizers before
eventually getting dinner started around 6:30 p.m. The after-dinner treat was
build your own Smores using the barbecue aboard Harmony, which proved
quite popular with the under-12 crowd. Despite a few sticky spots in the
cockpit, the kids did great.
We all had a great time talking and looking at each other’s boats. As the light started to fade we found it hard to think about having to say goodbye and head for home.
| Technical Tips |
Double-Ended Mainsheet
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| Upcoming Events |
September 16-17. Cruise to St. Helens
October 21-22. Olympia Cruise.
November 18. Fleet 20 attends the Oregon Corinthian Sailing Association (OCSA) Annual Tropical Party at the Portland Yacht Club (PYC).
December 2. Fleet 20 Holiday Party
The Fleet 20 newsletter is published online once a month. Articles are the opinions of the authors and don't necessarily represent the consensus of Fleet 20.